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A controlled experiment on yarn hairiness and fabric pilling

机译:纱线毛羽和织物起球的对照实验

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摘要

This study focused on the hairiness of worsted wool yarns and how it affects the pilling propensity of knitted wool fabrics. Conventional worsted ring spun yarns were compared with comparable SolospunTM yarns and yarns modified with a hairiness reducing air nozzle in the winding process (JetWind). Measurements of yarn hairiness (S3) on the Zweigle G565 hairiness meter showed a reduction in the S3 value of approximately 46% was achieved using SolospunTM ring spinning attachment and a 33% reduction was achieved using the JetWind process. Interestingly, subsequent evaluation of the pilling performance of fabrics made from the SolospunTM spun yarn and JetWind modified yarn showed a half grade and full grade improvement, respectively over a similar fabric made from conventional ring spun yarns. This result suggested that a relatively large reduction in yarn hairiness was needed to achieve a moderate improvement in fabric pilling, and that the nature of yarn hairiness was also a key factor in influencing fabric pilling propensity. It is postulated that the wrapping of surface hairs by the air vortex in the JetWind process may limit the ability of those surface fibers to form fuzz and reach the critical height required for pill formation.
机译:这项研究的重点是精纺羊毛纱线的毛羽及其对针织羊毛织物起球倾向的影响。将传统的精纺环锭纺纱线与类似的SolospunTM纱线以及在卷绕过程中采用减少毛羽的空气喷嘴改性的纱线(JetWind)进行了比较。在Zweigle G565毛羽仪上进行的纱线毛羽(S3)测量表明,使用SolospunTM环锭纺纱附件可将S3值降低约46%,而使用JetWind工艺可将S3值降低33%。有趣的是,对SolospunTM短纤纱和JetWind改性纱线制成的织物的起球性能的后续评估显示,与传统的环锭细纱制成的类似织物相比,其等级分别提高了半级和全级。该结果表明,需要相对较大程度地降低毛羽以实现织物起球的适度改善,并且毛羽的性质也是影响织物起毛倾向的关键因素。据推测,JetWind工艺中空气涡流包裹表面毛发可能会限制这些表面纤维形成绒毛并达到丸剂形成所需的临界高度的能力。

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